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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.